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I remember the first time I saw a photo of Cara Delevingne on Tumblr, specifically her eyebrows. The eyebrows that launched a thousand (more like millions) sales of Glossier’s Boy Brow. Since then, I’ve followed every trend: Delevingne’s entire arc, the ’90s resurgence, and now, finally, the slow work of growing what I’ve always had.
The thing about eyebrows is that they control everything. They shape your expressions, frame your face, and have a huge effect on how good (or not) you look on any given day. That’s why finding the right shape for your specific face is more important than following whatever trend is currently hot.
Featured image from our interview with Sami Bernstein Spalter by Michelle Nash.
To find out how to do it, I turned to Amanda Robinson, owner of Iris+West Lash Co. in Los Angeles and the man responsible for Mandy Moore and Molly Baz’s eyebrows. With over a decade of experience in the beauty industry, Amanda has built a loyal following in Los Angeles for her natural, highly personalized approach to eyelash extensions and eyebrow design. She founded Iris+West after seeing firsthand the damage and overly uniform results that came from poor application techniques and set out to redefine the space by focusing on lash health, hold and customization.
Her advice was simpler than I expected and more helpful than any eyebrow tutorial I’ve seen. Fasten your seatbelt.
The facial mapping technique you need to know
Before plucking a single hair, Robinson recommends this three-point facial mapping method to find your ideal eyebrow shape:
- Place a pencil vertically from the corner of your nose up; that’s where your eyebrow should start.
- Angle it diagonally from the dimple of your nose toward the outside of your iris; That’s where your arc should peak.
- Angle it from the side of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye; that’s where the eyebrow should end.
“Those three points give you the ideal start, arc and end,” Robinson says. Whether you’re professionally shaping your brows or filling them in at home, she adds, “Think of the top and bottom lines of your brow as railroad tracks—they should run parallel.”
Work with what you have
The common thread of Robinson’s philosophy is surprisingly simple: stop fighting your natural eyebrows. “My biggest advice is to work with what you have naturally,” he says. “Some people naturally have more of an arch, while others have a straighter or more rounded brow. While we can definitely refine the shape, I find that people feel better when we don’t fight too much against what’s naturally there.”
In the debate between thick and thin, Robinson is clear that shape and arc matter more than thickness. “As a general rule, bolder eyebrows tend to suit stronger, more prominent features, while thinner eyebrows complement more delicate ones. Fuller eyebrows also tend to give a more youthful appearance.” But ultimately: “Whatever makes you feel most confident is what will fit you best.”
Common eyebrow mistakes and how to fix them
Even with the best intentions, eyebrows go wrong. Robinson’s most common culprit: “The biggest mistake I see is cutting them too flat and straight on the top.” Your solution? “Trim one hair at a time, brush it in the direction you want and do it slowly – you can always remove more hair, but you can’t put it back in.”
Other mistakes worth avoiding:
- Using harsh products on your eyebrows: treat them like the rest of your face
- Choosing the wrong shade (your eyebrows don’t have to match your hair exactly)
- Expect perfect symmetry: your eyebrows are sisters, not twins
- Skip brow grooming altogether
How to support eyebrow growth
If you’re in regrowth mode, whether from over-plucking or simply years of thin brow trends, Robinson points to peptide-based serums as her recommendation. “Peptides condition and strengthen the hair follicle and promote healthy growth.” One thing to avoid: prostaglandin analogs. While they can stimulate growth, Robinson notes that it’s worth approaching them with caution; Check with your dermatologist before adding one to your routine.
For defining, shaping and filling in sparse areas, a pencil is the most precise tool in your brow kit. Robinson recommends using light, hair-like strokes and letting the spoolie do the blending work.
If your brows are naturally full but need to be tamed, or if you want that brushed, laminated look without compromise, a gel is your option. Clear formulas work on all brow colors; dyed ones add soft padding.
For anyone in regrowth mode (from over-plucking, losing weight, or just years of following trends), a serum works at the follicle level rather than on the surface. Consistency is what makes them work; These are not instant gratification products.
