Simon Longland, director of fashion buying at Harrods in London, praised Celine as its flagship show of recent menswear collections in Paris, saying it “captured the mood of the season with confidence and clarity.” Also on his list of the five best collections were Givenchy, Lemaire, Auralee and Dior.
But Celine “met the moment better” and Longland added that it “felt effortless, modern and highly desirable, while still being based on pieces that customers will actually want to wear.”
And he noted that fashion week offered both trends that will matter and a number that won’t resonate.
On the positive side, he praised the “defining shift” toward a “softer, more fluid silhouette.” This meant that “tailoring became lighter, proportions relaxed and layering became more instinctive, creating wardrobes that seem more versatile than prescriptive.”
And beyond the silhouette, there was “a clear return to authenticity through natural fibers, earthy palettes and outdoor references.”
Accessories occupied more prominence than usual, “particularly jewelry with a personal and collected air: amulets, talismans and pieces that tell a story.”
And he noted that soft, washed denim “continues to evolve, while lightweight knits, collarless shirts, cargo pants and refined sportswear stood out as commercially relevant pieces for the coming season.”
What stood out most for him was “a growing sense of refinement rather than reinvention. Designers have moved away from extremes and instead focused on ease, quality and longevity. Another notable shift is the continued convergence of men’s and women’s creative direction. In many houses, the conversation is becoming less about gender and more about a shared wardrobe, with collections evolving through a common design language.”
So what was on your “too gimmicky for real life” list? “Ballet shoes are unlikely to be widely adopted by our customers,” he said. “Similarly, sheer clothing remains a major statement on the runway, but is unlikely to become a significant commercial opportunity beyond a handful of fashion brands.”
The store appears to be very focused on what will really work for its customers, saying it will “continue to invest in categories that build complete wardrobes rather than individual statements. Accessories, including sunglasses, belts and jewelry, remain a priority, along with lightweight layering pieces and products that support year-round dressing. We’re placing greater emphasis on color for SS27, while reducing exposure to heavier outerwear and heavy knitwear as customers continue preferring lighter, more versatile wardrobes.”
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