Paris Fashion Week will feature 68 shows, with the return of Valentino and Maison Margiela

No fewer than nine brands will return to the official Paris Fashion Week calendar at the end of September, with six of them presenting runway shows to present their Spring/Summer 2027 women’s ready-to-wear collections.

On July 24, the French Federation of Fashion and Haute Couture (FHCM) published the official provisional calendar for the week, which runs from Monday, September 28 to Tuesday, October 6, and confirms the dominant position of Paris among the world’s fashion capitals: the calendar features 101 brands, 68 of them with catwalk shows, while 33 opted for presentations. The event will take place over nine days, such as September 2025 and March 2026.

Two great comebacks will be closely followed. Valentino, in its Alessandro Michele version, will return to the fashion show calendar on Sunday, October 4 at 3:30 p.m. CET. The luxury brand missed the March session and presented its previous ready-to-wear collection off-schedule at the Palazzo Barberini in Rome. The spotlight will also be on Maison Margiela, directed by Belgian designer Glenn Martens, which returns to the women’s ready-to-wear calendar in Paris on September 29 at 5:30 p.m. CET, after having shown in Shanghai last season. Sacai also returns to the Parisian calendar with a show scheduled for Monday, October 5 at 10 a.m. CET. In June, the brand’s founder, Chitose Abe, chose to show off her hybrid looks during Paris men’s fashion week. Designer Charaf Tajer will once again show with his brand Casablanca on Friday, October 2 at 2:30 p.m. CET. Also returning are Australian designer Christopher Esber and inclusive brand Ester Manas, after taking a strategic break to consolidate their supply chain. Among the presentations, the historic brand Léonard Paris, the recycling pioneer Xuly Bet and the women’s clothing brand Didu also return to the official calendar.

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The names mentioned join a program full of emerging designers, international brands and industry giants. On Tuesday, September 29, it will be Christian Dior’s turn, which will be presented at 2:30 p.m. CET. On Wednesday, September 30, Tom Ford will take over the evening slot at 8:00 p.m. CET, while Balenciaga will perform on Thursday, October 1, at 2:00 p.m. CET. The final two days of the Paris fashion marathon will be packed with an unprecedented number of iconic names: Chanel will take center stage on Monday, October 5 at 8:00 p.m. CET, while Louis Vuitton will close the week at 6:30 p.m. CET on Tuesday, October 6.

Paris Fashion Week next September will reserve a special place for many newcomers. South African label Maxhosa Africa will reach a major milestone. Founder Laduma Ngxokolo, internationally recognized for his exceptional textile craftsmanship and geometric patterns inspired by his Xhosa heritage, will appear on the Paris runway calendar for the first time. Among the presentations, two women’s fashion brands will make their first appearance: Parisian designer Alexandra Golovanoff, famous for her cashmere knitwear, and designer Fidan Novruzova, who attracted attention for her architectural cuts and retro-futuristic style.

Renowned absentees

Despite the tight program, there will be several absences compared to previous editions. McQueen has chosen to make his presentation in London this season, eager to reconnect with his British roots. Also missing are Rabanne and Nina Ricci, both in transition between creative directors. American brands Off-White, Enfants Riches Déprimés and Thom Browne will miss Paris this season. Marine Serre, Coperni and Giambattista Valli also withdrew from this session. They are embracing the whims of the market by adjusting the timing of their presentations to coincide with private sales meetings in their showrooms or a revised trade calendar.

Finally, to support emerging designers, the Sphere showroom will be active at the Palais de Tokyo from Wednesday, September 30 to Tuesday, October 6. The showroom managed by FHCM will host two new names: Meruert Tolegen, a New York brand with a slightly romantic style, and the French Victoria Valette. They will accompany J.Simone, Riz Poli, Sevali, Vautrait and Weinsanto, the latter two also registered in the official presentation calendar. As part of the partnership with the Italian Fashion Chamber, Sphere will also present the Italian brand Act N°1.