Paris for me is the Paris of the 1920s, through a lens of Woody Allen-level nostalgia, with A mobile party never far from mind. So it’s probably no surprise that I’ve made it my mission, trip after trip, to track down the secret passageways of Paris, the history behind them, and an excuse to spend too much time in a coffee with milk with a crunchy chocolate pain in the hand.
These covered passages are a nostalgic look at the city’s past, before shopping malls and convenience stores, when small boutiques and artisans were not only appreciated: they were the norm. The boom occurred almost entirely in the first half of the 19th century: in 1850 there were around 150 of these halls throughout Paris, and as many as 183 at their peak in 1867. Most were later demolished, first when Baron Haussmann’s renovations reshaped the city from the 1850s onwards, and then when department stores such as Le Bon Marché drew shoppers away from the smaller boutiques that stood inside them. Today between 20 and 25 survive, almost all on the right bank.
This guide covers ten of my favorites that are still standing, in the hopes that you see Paris through the same lens of my golden days as I do.
1. Vivienne Gallery
My favorite and, I would say, the most glamorous catwalk still standing today. Galerie Vivienne is a popular stop for locals and their miniature dogs, seeking artisanal goods in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement. Built in 1826 and located right next to the Palais Royal, it is a near-perfect display of polished wood, natural light and wrought iron.
4 Rue des Petits Champs, 2nd arrondissement
2. Passage of Panoramas
With vintage signs adorned with gold foil and a train-themed restaurant that looks like something out of the Hogwarts Express, Passage des Panoramas is my second favorite, if only because of how much it reminds me of Diagon Alley (yes, a hopelessly devoted fan here). Dating back to 1799, this passage is the oldest surviving passage in Paris and one of my favorite places in the entire city to spend a nostalgic afternoon – bring company and settle in for a long, unhurried lunch.
11 Boulevard Montmartre, second arrondissement
3. Jouffroy Passage
My third favorite passage in Paris is located in the 9th arrondissement, directly across from the Passage des Panoramas on the other side of Boulevard Montmartre: two separate arrondissements, facing each other on the same street. Built in 1845-1846, it is one of the first Parisian passages built entirely of metal and glass, and ends in a cute boutique hotel that looks straight out of the 1920s.
10 Boulevard Montmartre Boulevard, 9th arrondissement
4. Vero-Dodat Gallery
I stumbled upon Galerie Véro-Dodat by chance, wandering near the Louvre in search of something to eat. Built in 1826, it’s one of the quietest passages in Paris, making it a great, uncrowded spot to take a photo of its iconic black-and-white checkered marble floor.
19 Vero-Dodat Gallery, first district
5. Colbert Gallery
Right next door to the Galerie Vivienne, and so easy to miss, the Galerie Colbert dates from the same year, 1826. It’s now run by France’s national heritage institute rather than run as boutiques, so it’s quieter and more museum-like, but the domed glass rotunda at its center is worth the detour alone.
6 Rue des Petits Champs, 2nd arrondissement
6. Choiseul Passage
One of the longest surviving passages, built in 1827, the Choiseul Passage has literary fame: the writer Louis-Ferdinand Céline grew up here and wrote about the passage in his novels. Today it is a functional and slightly scruffy playroom, less polished than Vivienne but full of character.
40 Rue des Petits Champs, 2nd arrondissement
7. Grand Cerf Passage
Built in 1825 and with the highest glass ceiling of any surviving Paris passage, the Passage du Grand-Cerf has leaned toward design and concept stores rather than antiques, making it feel distinctly more modern than its neighbors. It’s also one of the quietest, so it’s a good option if you want photos without other people in them.
145 Rue Saint-Denis, 2nd arrondissement
8. Brady Passage
Known today as “Little India,” Passage Brady in the 10th arrondissement has been the center of Paris’s Indian and Pakistani community since the 1970s, lined with curry houses, grocery stores, and sari shops. Built in 1828, it’s the passage that looks least like the others on this list, and that’s exactly the point.
46 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 10th arrondissement
9. Cairo Passage
Along with the Passage des Panoramas, this is the oldest surviving passage in Paris, dating back to 1799. Its Egyptian-themed façade, complete with carved heads of pharaohs, was inspired by Napoleon’s Egyptian campaign of the same year. It has historically been the center of Paris’ textile district, so you’ll find wholesale clothing and fabric stores rather than boutiques.
2 Place du Caire, 2nd arrondissement
10. Passage of the Princes
The newest of the passages on this list, rebuilt in the 1990s on the site of a much older 1860s gallery, the Passage des Princes has become known for its toy shops, making it a fun stop if you’re traveling with kids. It’s hidden just around the corner from Rue de Richelieu.
97 Rue de Richelieu, 2nd arrondissement
Practical tips for visiting
Most of these passageways are gated and close at night, usually at 8 or 9 pm, and some of the smaller inland boutiques close on Sundays; Visit them during the day if you want to see them at their best. They’re free to walk around, but many contain working shops, cafes and restaurants, so it’s worth scheduling a visit for a coffee or lunch at one.
Frequently asked questions
How many covered tickets are left in Paris? Somewhere between 20 and 25, depending on how strictly a “passage” is defined; the majority is concentrated in districts 2, 9 and 10 on the right bank.
Are Paris tickets free to visit? Yes, they are all open to the public to tour for free, although they operate within their own opening hours and usually close at night.
What is the oldest covered passage in Paris? Passage du Caire and Passage des Panoramas are tied for oldest, both dating back to 1799.
Is it better to visit Galerie Vivienne or Galerie Colbert? Galerie Vivienne has more shops, cafes and general atmosphere; The Galerie Colbert next door is quieter and worth a look for its glass rotunda if you’re already in the area.
FIX IT!
To you!
Have you visited more secret passages in Paris? Which was your favorite?
