Go big or go home

Men’s Folio highlights watchmakers who are unapologetic about what they do best, bringing together watches driven by innovation, precision, heritage and sustainability to reflect where modern watchmaking is headed.

https://omg10.com/4/10736335

High professional level in heritage

Set apart from the rest, Franck Muller’s Vanguard Sport is a unique perspective on how the heritage and craftsmanship of watchmaking intersects with sports.

Presented as an Asia Pacific exclusive, the watch refines the maison’s signature tonneau silhouette into a confident, contemporary statement. Its V43 stainless steel case, hand-polished to emphasize its sculptural curves, frames a dial defined by a brushed finish and a striking guilloché sunburst pattern that radiates from the center, catching light with every movement.

Each applied number is meticulously painted and placed by hand, underscoring the house’s dedication to detail. Combined with a crocodile leather strap with contrast stitching and a rubber bottom, the watch balances elegance with everyday toughness.
It is powered by the MVD 2536-SCDT automatic movement, which offers a 42-hour power reserve and is finished with refined decorative techniques. Ultimately, the Vanguard Sport presents itself as a versatile companion that combines bold design with functional sophistication suitable for an athlete.

winter technicians

Before reaching a goal conceived over two decades, the presentation of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive caliber 9RB2 at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 revels in technological advances.

Developed with the idea of combining the traditional power of a mainspring with modern watchmaking techniques, the Spring Drive caliber 9RB2 received the UFA designation, which stands for “Ultra Fine Precision.” With an annual speed of ±20 seconds, it is the most accurate wristwatch movement powered by a mainspring.

The movement is used in the Evolution 9 SLGB003, housed within its new Ever-Brilliant Steel, a stainless steel alloy with exceptional corrosion resistance and a brilliant tone. The Shinsu region of central Japan, where the watches were meticulously crafted, serves as a source of inspiration. From the textured dials depicting sunrise over the frost-covered forest, to the sapphire crystal caseback inspired by the region’s winter atmosphere, Grand Seiko continues to instill the belief that its mastery of innovation does not need to sacrifice the beauty of its designs.

all over the world

Reimagining the art of travel within an Art Deco icon, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic turns the reversible case into a stage for modern watchmaking ingenuity. Powered by the new in-house caliber 834, it integrates a world time complication with a patented large date, a sophisticated combination designed to fit the Reverso’s slender rectangular proportions without compromise.

Instead of following convention, the watch presents global time through a fixed city ring and a rotating 24-hour disc on the reverse dial, offering intuitive readability and a dynamic sense of movement. A lacquered three-dimensional world map, laser cut and hand finished, adds depth and artisanal character to the exhibition.

Available in limited editions of steel and rose gold with Casa Fagliano straps, the Tribute Geographic puts technical intelligence at the forefront. It stands out by transforming a historic design into a tool for the contemporary traveler, where architecture and innovation align perfectly.

Wit down

With the ambition to push the boundaries of the deep sea, OMEGA’s fourth-generation Planet Ocean advances the technical language of the modern dive watch. Twenty years after its debut, the collection returns slimmer and flatter at 13.79mm, redesigned with a newly structured two-part case and a titanium inner ring that reinforces its 600m water resistance. This architecture is based on information borrowed from the Ultra Deep project, which translates extreme diving innovation into everyday reliability.

For the first time in the collection’s history, the helium release valve has been removed, slimming the silhouette and preserving pro-level performance. A screw-down grade 5 titanium caseback replaces the clear sapphire crystal, reducing weight and improving structural strength. Even its bright orange ceramic bezel represents years of material refinement, achieving a notoriously difficult hue in zirconium oxide.

Powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8912, the Planet Ocean meets METAS-certified standards for precision and magnetic resistance, proving that true innovation lies both below and above the surface.

Clarity amidst speed

Distilling six decades of automotive heritage into sharper contemporary form, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph expands the legacy of the crystal case with a greater focus on clarity, proportion and mechanical performance. Now presented in a 41mm case, the watch features complementary sizing that amplifies wrist presence while preserving the purity of Jack Heuer’s original vision.

The defining sapphire crystal curves perfectly over the dial and flange, creating depth and a panoramic sense of legibility that draws the eye directly to the chronograph counters. A clean, dateless design reinforces this commitment to clarity, allowing the monochrome azurage subdials and tachymeter scale to stand out with intuitive precision. Every detail, from the refined typography to the renewed seven-row bracelet, emphasizes balance and coherence.

At its core is the in-house TH20-01 movement, equipped with a column wheel and vertical clutch for smooth and precise activation of the chronograph, along with an 80-hour power reserve. The Carrera refines the art of legible timing, placing legibility and mechanical integrity firmly at the forefront.

Sand and steel

Rooted in expedition history but adapted to modern extremes, the new TUDOR Ranger polishes the idea of the pure tool watch. Expanding the line with a new 36mm case and a matte “Dune white” dial, the Ranger doubles down on its defining principle: simplicity as strength. In environments where complexity invites failure, this watch is designed to last. Its satin-finish steel case, domed dial with bold Arabic numerals, and distinctive Ranger hands prioritize instant legibility. At the same time, the COSC-certified manufacturing calibers MT5400 and MT5402 offer robust precision with a silicon hairspring and a “weekend-proof” 70-hour power reserve. With a quick-fit T-lock and 100m water resistance, it stands out as a watch designed for reliability. With a design meant to function far from the quiet nature of urban life, it stands out by embracing purposeful minimalism, proving that true capability lies in reliable simplicity.