T+L Hotel Review of The Lake Estate in Winnisquam in New Hampshire

As if on cue, the soulful howl of a loon pierced the autumn air as I stepped out onto my bedroom balcony overlooking Lake Winnisquam, a place long treasured by New Hampshirites but little known to the outside world.

Opened at the end of September, The Lake Estate in Winnisquam is the first luxury resort in the Granite State since 1902, when the historic Mount Washington Hotel (now Omni Mount Washington Resort & Spa) ushered guests into the halcyon era of opulent travel. Today, visitors are still transfixed by New Hampshire’s alpine wilderness, while the Lakes Region is a cultural touchstone comprising 273 lakes and ponds, including the state’s fourth-largest lake, Winnisquam. Its name translates to “pleasant waters” in Abenaki, a language spoken by the Algonquian people, who lived here until the mid-18th century.

With only a few days to explore the 36-acre resort, I let myself follow a wide gravel path to the boardwalk, past the pollinator gardens bordering the large lawn, the 84-degree infinity pool, and through a forest of eastern white pines to a private beach with lounge chairs, kayaks, and paddleboards. On a warm Sunday in September, just an hour and a half from Boston, there were no other people on the water, just squawking mergansers, black-headed gulls, pearly oyster shells close at hand, and a wonderful sense of peace.

A paddle around the bend revealed one of the resort’s secluded coves and a lovely walking trail through the forest that would later feel like a parting gift. I floated between communities of timeworn cottages, modern houses and The Lake Estate, its dark brown façade, stone columns and green teak railings blending into the natural surroundings. Although I knew there were ruined cabins on the berm three years earlier, and cows and farmland long before, the 116-room resort somehow seemed like a family compound that had always been part of the postcolonial horizon.

For Ed and Patti Rocco, hospitality veterans and the couple behind the $90 million project, the key to successfully reviving this unsung destination was making guests feel at home.

“We wanted that residential feel of a big family summer house,” said Ed Rocco, who is also the general manager. “That’s why the room names — the dining room, the library, the bar, the side bar — are boring,” he chuckled, adding that they were inspired by the grand lake houses of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, as well as their travels to places that value low-key luxury and environmental preservation.

There were trips to Vail, Colorado; The Adirondacks of New York, Adare Manor in Ireland and the Grand Hotel Royal Sorrento in Italy, where Ed Rocco delighted in the art deco lobby, traditional brass key chains, handwritten welcome notes and large tassels on the doors instead of “do not disturb” signs. Filled with ideas for an Old World-meets-New Hampshire aesthetic, the Roccos turned to local firm Samyn-D’Elia Architects and Boston-based designer Manuel de Santaren to create a romantic retreat.

There are no frivolous design decisions at The Lake Estate, where curiosities are tucked away in cozy nooks and hidden in plain sight without overstimulating guests. (Stunning lake views rightly dominate the room.)

“Everything has a story,” Ed Rocco said. “Nothing has happened here recently.” There are gold leaf volumes of Shakespeare, exquisite pottery, and more than 100 works of art, including Audubon-style bird prints that add a touch of whimsy to the hallways and 74 oil paintings by Hudson River School artists that Manuel de Santaren discovered at estate sales in New England.

Nearby detours run the gamut from skiing at Gunstock Mountain to the quaint town of Laconia, but The Lake Estate’s homey atmosphere is an undeniable invitation to relax: listen to live piano music by the fire, play backgammon in the lounge with an espresso martini, or read under the covers in a four-poster bed. There are also plenty of resort-style activities: tennis and pickleball, fishing, a pontoon cruise, winery tastings, a movie theater, a florist with well-selected gifts, and a 5,000-square-foot full-service spa with heated mineral pool.

The resort’s numerous environmental initiatives include the elimination of single-use plastics, a recycled cooking oil program, an energy-efficient HVAC system and the installation of six electric vehicle charging outlets. Meanwhile, the spa uses natural skincare products and they all have charitable partnerships. Even the custom-made La Bella de la Esperanza candles contribute 10 percent of sales to free atlasthat fights against human trafficking. In the coming months, guests will be able to enjoy photography tours, cooking classes, yoga, holiday festivities, and a docked speakeasy serving bourbon.

With the possible exception of a large French tapestry installed in the dining room by expert textile hangers from Puerto Rico, The Lake Estate has been built by New Hampshire hands, from the electrical engineers to the woodworking artisans to the husband-and-wife culinary team.

In the hotel’s formal farm-to-table restaurant, where all 96 seats have panoramic views of the lake and the Belknap and Ossipee Mountains, executive chef Chris Viaud takes the helm alongside his pastry chef Emilee Viaud. Having worked together in the kitchen of Chris’s three previous New Hampshire establishments, the delicious alchemy of skill, commitment to improving New Hampshire’s food scene, and mutual respect for each other’s craft shines through in each multi-dimensional dish.

2024 Finalist for the James Beard Outstanding Restaurateur of the Year Award and best chef Season 18 contestant Chef Chris Viaud incorporates spices from his Haitian heritage into the seasonal menu, which offers weekly surprises both on and off the setlist. there is joy of living that sizzles in the colorful artistry and flavors of fall, whether it’s roasted sweet potato and ricotta tortellini, pan-seared scallops with pumpkin puree, or tender spiced duck fanned over a blueberry yuzu coulis, accompanied by mounds of purple kale, sauerkraut, candied potatoes, bright curly strips of pickled carrots, and sprinkles of hazelnut dukkah.

Similarly, the desserts are arranged like artful works of edible art, with the peanut butter s’mores semifreddo and the gluten-free caramel apple cheesecake resembling gifts almost too pretty to take down. “I love using the seasons as inspiration and trying to imagine what kind of dessert guests would like to enjoy when they sit and look at the lake,” said pastry chef Emilee Viaud.

Back on my balcony, I couldn’t have anticipated a richer combination than the mocha crème brûlée I brought from the restaurant and the brilliant starry sky. Lake Estate emits no light pollution at night, allowing for this perpetual dialogue with the landscape. Sitting close to nature in your Adirondack chair has the desired effect of deepening your connection to the spirit of this place, so that it haunts you, like the song of a loon, as all great vacations should.

Rooms start at $399 per night and can be booked at thelakeestatenh.com.