If you haven’t been to the Amalfi Coast before, there’s a reason it shows up on your Instagram feed every summer. One of the most recognizable and beautiful coastlines in the world, this winding stretch of Italy truly encapsulates la dolce vita. On a recent trip with friends, I was looking for a vacation rental that was as attractive a destination as the area itself. After much research, we decided to make Sorrento our home base for six days, eager to take in the sights, lounge on the beaches, and eat as much ice cream as our bodies could handle.
Walking up the hill to this six-bedroom villa made us feel like we were trapped in a movie (maybe Under the Tuscan sunor the Italian section of normal people). Each of the six bedrooms was generous in size and featured its own bathroom, as well as large windows, blackout curtains, comfortable mattresses and bedding, and places to store and hang clothes. But it wasn’t the interiors that originally caught our attention when booking, but the view. Situated almost on top of a hill and overlooking the village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, about a 25-minute drive from Sorrento, the view from Villa Orologio seemed encompassing, from the village to the nearby mountains and the Gulf of Naples in the distance. We spent most of our time on the property enjoying breakfast, dinner and each other’s company, sitting around the large table under the terrace awning or on the sun loungers around the private pool.
While the large amount of white marble inside seemed a little sterile in the pictures, in person it felt completely different, like the perfect minimalist and understated backdrop to not overshadow the terrace and exceptional views. The amenities and bathrooms were all modern and the air conditioning was powerful (something we Americans really appreciated). One of the six bedrooms was technically a self-contained studio with a separate bedroom and bathroom located just a few meters from the main house, ideal for couples or small families wanting a little more privacy and space. The other five bedrooms were located on three different levels of the main house. We made good use of the green and marble kitchen and were able to prepare some meals which we happily enjoyed around the table for 12 on the terrace with a couple of glasses of wine.
The rental itself is managed by a nearby hotel, which was helpful on a few occasions, like when a big storm knocked out our Wi-Fi and power and the hotel staff was able to drive up to us and give us updates, provide us with complimentary umbrellas, and book us a taxi to Sorrento when our phones weren’t working. Before our arrival, they stocked our kitchen with some ingredients we requested (unfortunately, due to the remote location or language barrier, they couldn’t get everything).
The nearby village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi was about a 15 minute walk downhill and was a great place that was a little away from the tourist crowds in Sorrento. You can also take a bus to Sorrento here if you wish. In the village we found delicious ice cream, a Michelin-rated restaurant, a grocery store with light ingredients and some adorable shops.
One thing to keep in mind is that public transport here can be quite indifferent. The buses arrive when they want, not necessarily on time, and sometimes they stop here, sometimes there, depending on the day. If you plan to stay at this village, allow plenty of time to get to and from your destination, rent a car (if you’re willing to brave the winding cliffs and steep drop-offs), or simply stay put and enjoy the views. Another thing to note was that one of the bathrooms suffered a sudden ant infestation on the last day, which I’m sure would have been quickly eradicated by the staff if requested, but as it was the last day and we were away most of the time, we just left.
After a long day exploring Pompeii, strolling through Positano or wandering the streets of Amalfi, this large, comfortable place and its extraordinary outdoor space called us home like a beacon. We ran up the hill from the bus stop to watch the last remnants of the sunset from our villa with our feet in the pool and ice cream in our hands.
