Deciding it once and for all: What is box-colored beef?
Hair coloring is produced by depositing pigment in the hair. “Different types of dyes (temporary, semi-permanent, semi-permanent and permanent) have different levels of longevity. For example, temporary colors fade after one or two washes, while permanent dyes alter hair color in the long term,” explains Rudy. On a deeper level, these different dyes also have different application techniques, pH levels, ability to break down natural pigments, and color brilliance. Bleaching, specifically, is the method used to achieve blonde, pastel and bright tones by eliminating melanin from the hair.
Given the complexities (and sheer chemistry) involved in the process of lifting and depositing pigments, it’s less about boxed dyes replacing the hair care industry and more about how convenience is sold to customers at the cost of inefficient results.
“Box dyes use universal, high-pigment formulas that often cause banding and uneven oxidation,” shares Ko. “Stylists advise against box dyes because they rely on aggressive, single-level developers that ignore the porosity and history of the hair, resulting in unpredictable tonal buildup. Professional color is precisely formulated and customized to maintain the integrity of the hair.” Ting adds that typical box dyes contain high concentrations of ammonia and strong color developers, which can cause hair damage and, most notably, uneven coloration.
What the kids are doing these days
Instead of the coppery browns (obtained involuntarily) that most early home dyeing jobs end with upon graduation from school, the limitless nature of hair dyes, along with bleaching techniques, has given children countless options to play with.
Among their clientele at Noting and Hairstuff, stylists have seen different trends, from cool-toned browns and silver blondes to no-bleach colors. “Without getting carried away by singular trends, we consider the client’s overall style, including how they dress, their personality, and their skin tone. Someone with a clean, minimalist wardrobe may have a greater affinity for cool neutrals, like ash brown or graphite, while someone with a bold, edgy style may wear platinum blonde, on-trend muted tones, or high-contrast highlights,” explains Ko.
The goal is to ensure that the tone enhances your identity, rather than overpowering it.
A prescriptive approach to dyeing jobs
Not all hair color jobs are created equal, nor are they intended to convey the same goals as the Hollywood and Hallyu star hairstyles you see on the red carpet. If you are looking to hide gray hair, explore highlights that blend gray hair. “It’s a highlighting technique that blurs and softens the appearance of gray hair, rather than covering it for a natural, perfect look,” shares Rudy.
As for color, Ting recommends exploring a range of shades, from dark to medium browns, ash blondes, and plant-based colors like henna. Alternatively, tonal glazing (which involves covering the hair in a layer of color) and scalp micropigmentation have been effective alternatives to complement gray locks.
For those looking to achieve the look of fuller hair, try highlights. “Through root shading and controlled micro-highlights, we can create the appearance of depth and density, resulting in the illusion of fuller hair,” explains Ko. “Since highlighting involves strategically placing lighter strands throughout the hair, the hair appears fuller from the added dimension,” adds Rudy.
Don’t you feel crazy spending hours in the salon, subjecting your scalp to the harsh oxidation processes of bleaching? Bleach-free colors can still achieve a spectrum of subtle yet impactful shades, depending on your preference for warm or cool tones. Given our darker natural hair colors, warm reddish browns such as burgundy, dark cherry and mahogany could be explored, as well as cool-toned colors such as deep plum, deep purple and navy blue.
Colors for the curious
If blonde ambition persists, it is important to proceed with reasonable caution. Ting and Ko explain the importance of stylists evaluating the integrity and condition of the hair before treatment, whether it has undergone previous chemical treatments, and the level of sensitivity of the scalp. “I make sure they haven’t re-bonded, dyed their hair black, or bleached it too much before,” Ting emphasizes. Hair that has been previously dyed would require additional processes to strip it of those extra pigments, further damaging the hair. “Clients need to receive appropriate hair treatments after bleaching. It is also important not to bleach the scalp. After bleaching, the hair cuticles are lifted to allow chemicals to penetrate the hair shaft. With repeated bleaching, they can be permanently raised, resulting in a more porous, dry, brittle texture and hair prone to breakage,” explains Rudy.
What makes a shade flattering? Ko analyzes the individual’s undertones and notes that ashy and icy palettes best suit cool-toned people, while caramel and copper tones complement warm-toned people. Warm undertones in the skin usually feature a golden, yellow or peach tint, while cool undertones are usually characterized by a pink or red tone. If you’re somewhere in between, you could have a neutral shade that allows you to explore a wider range of shades. Beyond the analyzes of fashionable colors, the most important thing is a color that adapts to the lifestyle and personality of each individual. “This also includes whether or not they are prepared to maintain the color and health of their hair afterwards,” says Rudy.
Prior to any chemical treatment, a well-trained stylist will properly evaluate the health of the scalp and hair (taking into account color history, chemical exposure, porosity, elasticity and condition of the scalp) to determine if the desired results can be achieved without compromising the hair fiber. “Beyond simply assessing willingness to maintain hair, clients should also consider whether their work environment allows for dramatic hair transformations,” Ting shares.
Color maintenance
To maintain hair color, artists recommend using color-safe hair care products, such as sulfate-free cleansers. Focus on nourishing your hair with products that hydrate hair fibers and repair cuticles. Additionally, reduce the frequency of hair washing, avoid washing with hot water, heat styling, and always apply heat and UV protection. For more advanced care, talk to your stylists about scalp treatments that deeply cleanse and soothe your scalp.
Damon Ting @damonting and Juno Ko @juuu.ko are co-founders of Noting Salon @notingofficial. Rudy Herman is a stylist at Hairstuff @rudyhairstuff.
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