This neighborhood guide is curated by one of our New York City-based editors who calls it home.
The Upper East Side is a classic. He’s never followed trends, which is exactly what makes him great. In an ever-changing city, there is a sense of timeless familiarity, where you can still find the quintessential New York City immortalized in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Sex and the City, and if, Gossip Girl.
Which brings me to my next point: The posh Upper East Side that most outsiders know is but one slice of this deceptively large neighborhood, beginning at 59th Street and ending (by most accounts) at 96th Street. Within these borders are three microneighborhoods: Lenox Hill, Yorkville, and Carnegie Hill, each with their own distinctive vibe. I recommend all visitors stroll the blocks of Gilded Age row houses and window shop along Madison, but I also suggest venturing beyond Park Avenue to stop at the community’s old mom-and-pop establishments and local favorites. It’s here where you’ll find gems like Anthony Bourdain’s favorite pastrami sandwich, a South African wine bar with an incredible happy hour, old-school Italian bastions patronized by artists like Joan Didion and Paul McCartney, and quiet park benches overlooking the East River.
While I won’t go so far as to claim that the Upper East Side is undergoing a radical transformation, I do believe that it is in the midst of a golden era. Relatively low rents on the east end have attracted a wave of younger professionals and creatives uptown (a field to which this writer, a downtown girl until recently, belongs). Hot openings like Chez Fifi and Hoexter’s followed, injecting a nice jolt of energy into what can sometimes be a stiff food and nightlife scene. To accurately capture this delightfully delicate balance between UES’s new and old, classic and modern, I also turned to Emily Adler, Traveler‘s social media editor and a lifelong Upper East Sider, as well as Taylor Eisenhauer, our editorial operations manager and a UES resident for over five years, for their neighborhood spots. Together we have planned how to spend a perfect day on the Upper East Side.
9 am Coffee walk through Central Park
Central Park is nothing short of magical. You could spend an entire day hiking, biking, and picnicking on its 843 acres, and if you have time to spare, I highly recommend doing so. For the purposes of this itinerary, I suggest an early walk for less crowds and soft morning light (the park’s off-leash hours are 6 a.m. to 9 a.m., so be careful not to get caught up in a game of fetch). Before you leave, find a stool at which to nibble on a pastry or bagel and sip a coffee of your choice (solid options include or washing machines (for cakes), Bakery Breads (for the famous babka), Butterfield Market (for to-go coffee, smoothies and wraps), and mourning costumes (for fresh bagels, smoked salmon and other smoked fish).
My Central Park walking route begins at the 77th Street entrance, and from there it’s a quick walk to the boathouse curbs (for those traveling with small children, the Remote-controlled scale sailboat regattas here it’s a pleasure to participate and observe) and the life-sized Central Park Boathouse (rowboat rentals open at 10am, but in my opinion, they’re best romanticized from afar). Then follow the path to Bethesda Fountain, where musicians and snake charmers enchant, and climb the stairs to walk along “the Mall,” a promenade lined with beautiful American elm trees, before returning to the starting point. Whether you prefer an afternoon picnic or a Frisbee toss, Sheep Meadow, with stunning skyline views and people-watching galore, is the place to be when the sun rises. If you prefer a brisk walk or jog, the Reservoir Running Track between 86th and 96th Streets is a 1.5-mile loop with panoramic views of the city and water. Strollers and dogs are not allowed, a rarity in the UES. The Conservatory Garden to 105th Street in East Harlem is worth the venture for its spectacular six acres of manicured lawns and floral displays, from Korean chrysanthemums in fall to endless rows of colorful tulips in spring.
